A Complete Used Boat Buyers Guide

Below is my complete process for inspecting a used boat. It's a step by step guide that will prepare you for anything. Anyone can follow this guide and complete all the steps to be sure you're not purchasing a "lemon".

The guide is structured in order of importance, however I would typically inspect the interior/exterior cosmetics before all else. There is no reason to invest time in other inspections if you wouldn't purchase the boat regardless because it is not in good condition visually.

This guide is also geared toward a complete beginner. So, some information here may feel obvious to some.

You may want to scroll to the bottom of this page and take a glance at the glossary, if you are not familiar with a fair amount of boat terms.

Also I am basing this off a standard fiberglass inboard boat. Everything here translates to a pontoon, aluminum fishing boat, or an outboard pleasure boat. Inboard boats are the most complex, so if your inspecting a pontoon soon, some items in this guide may be bundled together, or not exist at all, ie: Bilge, outdrive, etc.

I will also cover basic information about repair: costs, likelihood, and avoid-ability. Another key point I will illustrate: How small issues can provide insight on previous owner care, and overall maintenance. My main goal here is to take you from a possibly a complete novice, to a confident boat buyer, that is capable of estimating the likelihood of mechanical failures, and future repairs. It's way less complex than you'd think!

Through years of buying boats, and observing customers purchasing boats through me or the marinas I work for, and also hearing the occasional Facebook horror story, Here's My List of the top mistakes buyers make:

1. Not starting a boat. This may come as a surprise, but I have had countless customers buy boats without ever hearing them run. Yes I advertise with honesty, but not everyone does. Taking someone's word that a boat "runs" or "runs excellent" is the number one biggest mistake, NEVER DO THIS! One thing I see a lot, and always makes me laugh: an ad that reads "just needs a $40 part, and it will run great." if that was true, 99.9% of the time you would have it fixed and ask considerably more!
2. Not Checking Fluids. Low Fluids indicate leaks, high fluid levels indicate water intrusion ( read more in the mechanical section). Failing to check fluid levels opens yourself up to potentially costly repairs.
3. Not inspecting the whole hull. Buyers tend to be excited with the thought of all the summer fun ahead. You need to check the whole hull top to bottom for chips, cracks, etc. do more then walk around, look underneath thoroughly.
4. Not inspecting the interior properly. seats can become brittle but still show well. kneel on different panels to expose possible dry cracking and weak seams. also look over everything well, twice if you have to. It's a big bummer to spend you hard earned money on a boat, take it out, and start realizing things you didn't notice before purchasing.
5. Generally not being thorough. As mentioned above excitement almost adds blinders. Check every gauge, every feature: trim, horn, bilge, lights, etc. move the steering wheel. check for mold in storage compartments and engine bay. just go slow and be detailed. Make it a game, typically everything you find can give you negotiating power.

Nothing is 100% certain, but the following tips can increase your chances for an amazing summer by a lot. Some things happen by chance, are truly unforeseen, and not predictable or detectable. Beyond those, most issues you'll have are from a lack of knowing what to look for. Here's my process for inspecting mechanical condition.

1. Feel the engine ( be very cautious ) but actually put your hand on the engine. Again use caution and judge whether the engine would be hot before placing your hand physically on it. This is to make sure the owner hasn't started the boat prior to you arriving. This can be an indication of poor starting, and or poor running conditions when the boat is cold, or has been sitting. Its a terrible feeling to buy a boat, get to the dock with your family and not start because the owner hid something from you.
2. Check the oil. Oil should be checked cold-non running. If it is right at the full indicator and golden, you're golden. the color can range from bright golden (new), to jet black ( old and indicating the need for an oil change). generally if its at the full mark and between gold and black your safe. If oil is low its a sign of leak or engine consumption. Leaks can range from $100-over $1000 to fix. Oil consumption though is due to internal engine wear and a much more costly engine repair, or replacement, often starting @ $3000+. Engine hours can help, low hours 0-600 its likely a leak, getting into the 1000 hours and over it could be more serious. IF THE ENGINE OIL LOOKS MILKY, PALE, OR IS OVER FULL AND DISCOLORED THERE IS SERIOUS DAMAGE. This is an indication of water getting into the engine, which causes extremely bad engine damage. Its hard to estimate a cost but the most likely repair is a complete engine replacement (not cheap).
3. Check hoses and belts. Again be cautious of heat. You can squeeze hoses, and rotate belts: looking for little cracks. This indicates weak conditions of the rubber components. usually quite affordable in the $125-$300 range for individual repairs. It can also indicate a generally poor storage habit, or poor maintenance by previous owners.
4. Start the engine. If the boat is not in the water this will require "muffs". Muffs attach to a garden hose and provide water and cooling capabilities to the engine. Listen for rattling noises, visually look at the engine and observe it for harsh vibrations ( some minor vibration is normal ). Make sure the owner is not helping it idle, it should idle smoothly on its own without any throttle input. and rev it up a bit, you will not cause any damage by making sure the engine revs up properly. Any attempt by the owner to prevent you from doing any of this is a big red flag. For added protection: Let the engine run long enough to observe the temperature gauge on the dashboard rise, it will typically rise to 170°-210°F. At this point it should either drop in temperature a few degrees or remain at a constant temp. this step adds assurance against overheating issues. If an engine is overheating a water pump or thermostat can be faulty ( $80-$500) or a more serious head gasket, or cracked engine could be the culprit ($1500-$5000+). Also Check the oil pressure gauge. It should read somewhere near the middle of the gauge, this differs widely from engine to engine with 15psi-50psi being healthy depending on the model. The gauge though should read near the middle value for each individual boat (15psi may be healthy for one boat, and a bad sign on another boat, so always use the gauge as an indicator). anything above the "11:30" mark is safe. Low oil pressure is different from low oil, and certainly indicates internal engine wear, and a worn down engine in most cases.
5. Put it in gear. Lower the Outdrive ( if its' an inboard boat meaning the engine is mounted inside). To a safe level where the prop will not interfere with the ground. You don't want to put it in gear with the Outdrive up: that is stressful to the inner components ( more in the Outdrive section). When putting in gear there is usually a smooth audible clatter (similar to driving over rumble strips on the highway in your car) as the prop is being engaged. loud clunks, or harsh vibrations are red flags! Check both forward and reverse. Clunking and vibrations indicate Outdrive issues: see more in that section.
6. Check oil again. Let the engine cool down and allow the oil to settle. this process usually takes 30-60 seconds. Check the diptstick, wipe it off with a rag, and check it again. This is an added caution to be certain oil is not leaking, water is not entering the engine etc. DON'T SKIP THIS STEP!
7. Check Power Steering Fluid. if applicable, remove the power steering cap with the engine off. Fluid should be full and reddish. its possible on some boats to have a different color: Clear, Blue, etc. Bubbles are no good and indicate other issues. Power steering leaks or issues can range most commonly between $400-$800. Possibly more but unlikely.
8. Thats it! You've successfully gave the engine a proper inspection and can move on.

Checking the Outdrive is a little more vague, if you're not able to actually do a water test-ride, there are a few things to do in effort to avoid potential issues. Its very simple, but can expose serious issues, and neglected maintenance.

1. Check the "bellows". The most common wear part, and most commonly neglected maintenance item on the Outdrive is the bellows. Cables that control the shifting abilities of the boat, and usually the exhaust exit the boat in the rear, and enter the Outdrive. They are routed through "bellows". These bellows look like rubber accordions, they allow for the passage of cables and other things, while preventing water from entering your boats hull (potentially sinking it). You will want the Outdrive "trimmed" or tilted fully upward. You have to kneel down and look underneath the Outdrive, directly where it is connected to the boats hull. Underneath you should see these rubber accordion like gaskets, check for cracks, tears, etc. If damage is present it's typically obvious. Bellows are usually in the $700-$1300 range to replace. Also if they are damaged is a good indicator of poor maintenance, care, etc. Be alert about every other "wear" item if this comes up.
2. Prop & Prop-Shaft. Visually inspect the propeller, check for chips, dents, broken pieces. If a prop is damaged it will likely cause the boat to vibrate. Which also adds stress to all the internal components out the Outdrive. Props are typically $200-$400 to replace. You can also physically grab the prop and try to wiggle it up and down etc. It should have inward/outward play that's completely normal. But, anything up down/ side to sides indicates internal bearing wear, or bent pieces. Ranging from $700-$2500 for repairs/rebuilds. Any damage to the prop or related parts indicates the boat has hit, or ran over something, which would immediately draw my attention to the bottom of the boat's hull etc. Final note, have someone else put the boat in gear, see if the prop looks "wobbly": if it is there is damage inside that needs repair.
3. Check the "Skeg". Pronounced Skag, it is the leading fin bellow & in front of the prop on the Outdrive. It provides the boat with turning added turning capabilities. Just check for cracks, and broken pieces. There are skeg repair kits ($100-$300), but to truly repair you would have to replace the whole Outdrive. If it is slightly broke you can still operate the boat without noticing much difference. I would still buy a boat with a damaged skeg, but I would certainly negotiate price to reflect it.
4. Check for visual leaks. This one is really simple: just look for oil leaks anywhere around the Outdrive, prop, etc. Leaks can be fixed, but noticing them first can save a lot of money. Its hard to estimate a repair cost for leaks on an Outdrive because it depends whats leaking. Typically you'd be looking at something like $250-$700. Usually on the lower end.
5. Check the Steering. With the boat off the steering should be smooth, free (takes little effort to turn), no tight spots, or grabbing/clunks or detectable "feedback". With the boat running: Same thing it should feel very easy & smooth, just like a modern car. If its not smooth and it has some grab or "hiccups" it is not the end of the world. As long as it feels tolerable and comfortable you should be good. Steering repairs range from $600-$1000+.
6. You're all done here! Time to move on!

During the exterior inspection you want to look for things that bother you in an aesthetics way. You also want to look for issues that impact the boats value such as damage, fading, cracks, etc. A lot of time you will see some minor imperfections. The decision then lies on you to determine whether you want to buy that boat, negotiate a better price, or pass on the boat all together.

1. Inspect the hull. Look all the way underneath for evidence of damage. Damage can be present from a collision with items underwater, colliding with a hoist, or repeated "beaching". Start in the front and work your way back. I usually take a nice slow walk around the boat, looking for anything that catches my eye. There is not really any special tricks here, just looking for scrapes from docks, large chips in the gel coat, and overall fading if present.
2. Cleats & Bow Eye. I will pay close attention to the "bow eye" (the metal "U" that you use to winch the boat onto a trailer), and the cleats ( "T" Shaped pieces that you use to tie the boat to a dock). Fine "stress" cracks around these spots can indicate poor owner care, or brittle aged gel coat, etc. Not a huge cause for concern, but it helps you build a picture: if the boat was well cared for, or well used.
3. Assess Repairs. Once you've discovered all the blemishes, or lack of. Give yourself a minute and imagine the boat sitting in your driveway. Is there anything that bugs you? If so you have three options: A. Determine a likely repair amount and attempt negotiating. B. Attempt negotiating to a point where those blemishes don't bother you because the boat was at the right price. C. Walk away and find a boat in better condition.
4. Typical Repair Costs. If a boat is faded DO NOT let anyone convince you that it is an easy thing to repair. Bringing a 20' boat from faded to shiny easily costs $2000 and up if your looking for quality results. Sometimes a boat just has water spots: typically colored boats like red, blue, black. Removing water spots is a lot easier and would usually cost $500 for a 20' boat. You can also remove water spots on your own if you don't mind some physical work. Simple Chips from the size of a quarter to the size of tennis ball would typically range around $300 if its on a white surface. Double that if its colored. Minor stress cracks and fractures are typically only in the gel coat and would range around $800 for a football sized area with multiple minor cracks, double or more if the panel is not white. Physical cracks are really expensive and structural for example a 6" -12" crack would cost $1200-$2000 from a reputable shop, double again if its in a colored panel.

Inspecting interior upholstery is fairly self explanatory. There are a few key things to keep in mind if you're looking at a boat that is older, or has heavy wear.

1. Inspect fabric health. Some interiors on older boats can show quite well. It is still important to check for dry-cracking, weak thread on the seams, and other not so visual issues. Simple way to check: push in or kneel on seats, as the fabric stretches it will expose dryed out and on the verge of cracking materials. {Putting pressure on the seats also helps expose weak seams and stitching. The goal is to make sure the seats will maintain their appeal after you start using the boat. If the boat sat unused, potentially in the sun, the upholstery can be one season away from unusable. Estimates on interior replacement are not an easy thing to estimate, but are typically NOT worth the investment.
2. Check for Mold. If mold is present or visual its a good indicator of improper storage, and a lack of overall care. If its only from a poor storage one year you''ll be able to wipe it off with your bare hands. But, if the mold has penetrated the fabric it is not coming off no matter what you try. I don't care if YouTube, or google says otherwise, once mold has penetrated the fabric YOU WILL NEVER REMOVE IT! I've tried so many products, techniques, new advertisements, old tricks, The only thing that ever work was completely re-dying the upholstery. Expensive, labor intensive, and still just a cover up of an ongoing issue.
3. Just Look. Take an overall view of the interior condition and decide if its good enough for you. The interior is a big component, not worth replacing 99% of the time. If your not happy with the condition walk away, there are other boats out there. If your on a tight budget and the boat is affordable, and all other things check out, maybe the interior is the thing your willing to sacrifice to at least get some time on the lake. If that's the case go for it.
4. Value. Interior condition significantly impacts value. for example a 1998 20' Searay with a mint condition interior, clean exterior, and no mechanical issues, can be worth paying potentially $8-$10,000 depending on engine and other things. That exact same boat with a tattered interior, rips in the seats, is likely worth less than $4,000 depending on how bad the seats are. So the price you pay should reflect the interior condition and other aspects.

Interior electronics include gauges, stereo, lights, bilge, and other key features. Each thing is important, but usually not a cause to walk away. Most repairs can be handled by yourself, or can be done pretty affordably by a pro.

1. Gauges. When you turn the key on to the boat all gauges should move a little, that is a standard indicator that each gauge is receiving some signal. With the boat not running, key on, the gas, temperature, and battery gauge should all be on and accurate. If the boat hasn't been run, the temperature gauge will rest at "0". The battery gauge should show at least 10-12 volts, and the gas gauge should reflect some sort of level. Once started the temperature gauge should rise slowly after a minute or two. The oil pressure gauge should read somewhere near the middle. The RPM gauge should read between 700-1400RPM, and respond to revving the engine. The Speedometer will not read anything unless you are driving the boat across the water.
2. All other functions. On the boats "Helm" or "Dashboard" there will be a series of on/off switches. Go through each switch and make sure everything works. Horn is obvious.
3. "Nav" or "nav lights" should turn on the front red/green light, and also the rear white pole light ( often stored on the boat, and not installed unless being used). The rear pole light will plug into the boat near the rear on the side upper most part of the boat, look for a stainless steel cover, or a recessed socket to insert the pole into.
4. The bilge is a pump located in the engine area, and it pumps water out of the boat's hull. whether rain water, or from a leak. If you turn the bilge pump on you should hear an audible hum(sometimes faint).
5. The Blower is a vent fan that is used to ventilate gas/flammable fumes from inside the engine area to outside/environment. When on you will hear an obvious audible fan like noise
6. "Acc" or Accessory usually controls interior lighting, or deck lighting. But, can also be used to turn on fish finders, VHF radios etc.
7. Other Switches: There can be other Switches labeled for different features. Usually labeled in an obvious manor, turn them on and check that feature.
8. Test the Stereo. If music is important to you or not, turn the stereo on, and up, and try to listen to each individual speaker. If the stereo has issues, but you're not bothered, its still a potential bargaining tool. After all when you sell the boat one day, music may be important to the next owner.
9. Other things.... Each boat is equipped differently, just be thorough and inspect each feature one by one.
10. Potential repair costs. Gauges not functioning is usually due to an issue with the gauge, but could be wiring or sensor related. A safe bet for a repair would range from $100-$500 depending on the simplicity. Lighting is usually cheap unless its a wiring issue. a simple bulb or pole light can be replaced for a few dollars by yourself. if its in the wiring you expect $100-$200 for repair. Stereos can be replaced for $50-$100 or more if you want an upgrade, each speaker will typically cost $50-$100 to have replaced, and wiring can range from $50-$500 if there are significant issues. If you get where I'm going wiring or sensor issues can add a lot, but for the sake of simplicity here are some other (installed by professional) estimates: Bilge $100, Blower $150, Switches $50, Interior lighting $50.

Okay so everything checks out? You'll want to do a little check over the trailer to make sure you can get home and to the lake safely.

1. Look at the wheels. If the wheels have grease splattered all over them it could signal potential wheel bearing issues. Just FYI if a wheel bearing completely fails, your wheel WILL FALL OFF. You can also physically grab the front most, and rear most part of the tire: Push in with one hand while pulling with the other, and then alternate. The goal is to attempt to "wiggle" the tire. If there is any wiggle/play the wheel bearing is bad. This does take some strength to check, so if your not confident you can pass this step. Wheel bearing failure is rare, but if possible you can use this technique to check them. A wheel bearing would typically be around $300 to replace each.
2. Check the lights. You will need to have the boat hitched onto & plugged into a vehicle. Turn your running lights on, and then turn on the hazard flashing lights. Go to the back of the trailer the lights should be lit up, and also flashing brighter. If the flashers work, then both the blinker and brake lights are working. Also you should see and be able to determine that the "running lights" are working in between flashes. Burnt out bulbs, and full light replacements will cost $75 or less. A wiring issue, or complete rewire would be somewhere around $400, potentially less. Lighting would never impact my desire to purchase a boat. I want to mention it because it is an immediate concern for some people in my experience.
3. Check the axle. Look visually at the trailer axle(s). your just looking for bends here. A simple crouch will do, I've never crawled under a boat unless I'm looking for Hull damage. An axle replacement is rare, but if you happen to need this expect to pay around $1500 per axle.
4. Look for rust issues & Cracks. Just walk around the trailer and look at the overall condition. Anywhere 2 pieces of metal are joined you can give a quick glance for cracks( unlikely but I have seen it). Trailer fabrication/repairs can get quite costly, but a simple weld job, or repairing a cracked fender etc. would cost between $100-$300.

Your price range will control what type of boat you can shop for. however there are nice boats in almost any price range down to $3-$5000. You will likely have to sacrifice one of three things: Reliability, Age, Cosmetics. So think what is important to you. I will typically sacrifice Age first, then cosmetics. With a huge focus on reliability. After all you can have fun on an old boat, with a couple ripped seats, as long as it doesn't break down.

As your budget increases so should you expectations (within reason).

The best time to buy a boat is at the end of summer. The next best time to buy is in winter, But only from a trusted business or marina. I have, but could not recommend buying a boat private party over the winter months as you cannot inspect most of the mechanical aspects. These times of year ensure competitive pricing, and less competition.

The spring time is an amazing and exciting time to purchase your new boat. Be aware that negotiations get tougher, and completion is higher, with boats potentially selling before you can view them.

I have clients year-round that purchase boats. Each season has pros & cons. But, spring and fall/winter are the most extreme.

If you have found a boat in your budget, and you're ready to buy, first off congratulations. This is a very exciting time. My best piece of advice: Know and remember other boats exist. Don't buy something because searching for another seems daunting. Look at the boat, and make an educated decision. That ideally looks like this: Is the boat in solid mechanical condition? Is the boat presentable enough, considering my price range, for me to be happy? Is it unlikely that I'll find a significantly better priced boat? and finally... Do I feel excited & confident about the sale? If you're answering yes to these, its probably a good signal to move forward with a purchase.

Negotiating a better price is possible most of the time. Best practice is to view the boat and consider any repairs that need to be made. Some small thing that wouldn't bother most people will not give you bargaining power. Issues that impact usability and overall condition will. Be honest about what bugs you, don't insult, and ask if the price can be adjusted so you can fix a few things that you feel are bothering you. Use whatever wording you feel comfortable with, and don't be afraid to walk away.

Book values on boats are not very accurate. Information is based on only dealer sales across all states, and conditions. There simply isn't enough data for boat "book" values to be anywhere near as accurate as car values. Not to mention there have been over 2000 named boat manufacturers since 1990.

You can check a book value online, but I have seen book values off by thousands, even on boats under $10k. My honest opinion: Boat book values are vague at best. Dealerships use much more accurate paid platforms to determine value. A good way to research yourself is by viewing other similar boats, and comparing condition & prices.

Full disclosure this is my Opinion, backed by deep knowledge and years of research.

Reputation certainly impacts value. Take Bayliner for example. They are individually the number one worst boat, as far as reputation and resale. Rightfully so, as they don't use quality hulls, and they have the most basic equipment. But, they are typically the cheapest boat: Is it bang for your buck? I don't think so. Other brands that follow are, Kingfisher, Luhr, and Monterey. You can do a quick internet search on each brand to determine general public opinion.

Cobalt, from what I have seen ( specifically in the $10-$30k range) have the best reputation and resale. However you will spend more on the name and quality, for example a Four Winns, which is a solid brand. Other quality boat names that come to mind are Bennington, Searay, Crownline, and Regal, amongst many others.

Engines also have reputations, good and bad, and some complete rumors that are simply inaccurate. The best example I can give: Boat owners and internet trolls alike, will often hold ill opinions about the "Volvo Penta" drive system. Most claim it is extremely costly to repair. Ask a marine mechanic with experience and he will tell you, a Volvo Penta rebuild vs. a Mercuiser (one of the largest most reputable brands) rebuild, differ by maybe $200. In fact most of the mechanics i've talked to claim the Volvo is more reliable and easier to fix. Typically Volvo's do last longer, but when they fail its a higher likelihood of catastrophic failure, compared to the potentially shorter lived Mercuiser and others.

There are so many different engine makes and models, do a simple Google search including year and engine size if possible. If you would really like an honest answer, Call us at 45Marine, or any other Marine mechanic and ask if they will give you an honest estimate of ownership cost, and possibly reputation.

• Bilge or Bilge Pump- A pump located below the engine, or in the rear most part of the hull. A bilge pumps water out of the hull if needed whether it be from a leak, rain, etc.
• Blower- A fan like air pump that removes dangerous flammable fumes out from the engine compartment, you typically use them when refueling a boat to prevent fires on engine start up.
• Cleat- The almost "T" Shaped piece mounted to the boats hull that, and used to tie your boat to a dock.
• Bow Eye- The "U" shaped hook on the front of the boat, most commonly used to winch a boat onto a trailer.
• Gunwale- Pronounced "Gunnel", Is the upper half of the boat (above the rub rail).
• Hull- The lower part of the entire boat (below the rub rail).
• Outboard- This style engine is a complete unit, and is mounted on the back of a boat rather than in it.
• Inboard- This type of engine is mounted inside the boat, typically covered.
• Outdrive- Drive unit that propels and inboard style boat. It is the complete unit mounted outside the hull and houses shifting capabilities and the propeller.
• "Nav" Lights or Navigational lights- Red/Green (front) and White (elevated in the rear) lights that allow other boaters to determine your direction of travel at night.
• Docking Lights- Headlights that provide additional visibility when docking at night.
• Accessory Lights- Inside or outside accent lighting.
• Bellows-Accordion style gaskets that prevent water from entering the boats hull, found only on inboard boats, they house shift cables, etc.
• Helm- The drivers control center, including steering control and gauges.
• Skeg- Pronounced "Skag" Is the lower most fin of an outdrive, and outboard engine. It is directly in front of and below the propellor, It provides better steering capabilities.
• Beaching- A term that refers to pulling a boat up on a shallow area, essentially driving the boat up onto the beach to maintain a position.

I grew up in northern Michigan, and started a boat brokerage company about 7 years ago. Prior to that I was purchasing, fixing, and selling boats and other RV style vehicles. In the beginning all summer long i'd put my personal capital out, build a small inventory, service, detail, and create ads and sell as many watercraft as I could. If I could give my best estimate I have purchased somewhere in the neighborhood of 400 PWC's, and at least 200 boats. So I can confidently say I know what to look for, how to negotiate (when possible), how to inspect and repair mechanical & electrical, and so much more. I have probably ran into just about every scenario you can think of. I've wasted hours on the road, met some amazing people, and couldn't get away from other less pleasant people fast enough.

Naturally I've sold that same amount of vessels. Mostly a great record, but you can't reach those numbers without an occasional issue. I've worked really hard to take this from a hobby, to a business. I think the key is focusing on reputation, and doing right by your customers. Also during the sales process; being up front about your intentions is key! There will be a whole other article publishing soon about negotiation tactics that work, and some that fall flat, But to some up a whole article in three words "honesty is key".

After years of "research" and being in the market I started 45Marine. The main focus has always been reputation, and building relationships. Fast-forward through years of failures and triumphs I couldn't be more happy to do what I do! My wife has supported me every step of the way, and I look forward to meeting every potential new client. Currently I work with multiple marinas around the Charlevoix, Walloon, Harbor Springs, Petoskey, Alanson, and Brutus areas. Some of these relationships are profitable, but most are in place to ensure any client of mine receives the best possible service. Now I no longer service or repair boats thanks to those relationships. I have access to a team of certified technicians. You will find me wiping down a boat during preparations for advertising. But, extensive detail jobs are also outsourced too. 100% of my time now goes to: Sourcing inventory, creating ads, and dealing with clients, honestly three things that I love to do.